5 min read

Alaskan Expedition

A week in America's Last Frontier
Alaskan Expedition
The view from the lodge looking towards Denali National Park

After my two weeks in Southern California, I continued onwards to Alaska before flying back to Michigan. I left LAX midday and met up with my sister, her fiancé, and one of their friends in the evening. The scale and remoteness of Alaska can't be understated - the flight distance was around the same as LAX to NYC - a nod to how the standard Mercator map projection has warped our perspective on distance. In the Anchorage airport, I was greeted by a towering grizzly bear replica in the main terminal as I left the jet bridge - already foreshadowing the wilderness component of this trip. Unlike my two previous destinations (San Diego and Los Angeles) this wasn’t a survey trip and I had the whole week off from work so I could truly unplug. What unfolded was an unforgettable week ahead!

The next morning we woke up early to catch a scenic bus journey into the Alaskan interior lands. Our final destination, the town of Denali Park, lies about 200 miles and 4 hours north of Anchorage. The bus was spacious and comfortable and I did my best to sleep since it was still dark outside. Halfway through the drive, we pulled aside in the resort town of Talkeetna, where we got a chance to stretch our legs, grab some coffee and a bite to eat, and soak in the distant yet magnificent views of the Alaska Range, the main mountain range in Denali National Park. As we hit the road again, our bus driver shared his wealth of knowledge about the area and cracked jokes. The bus ride to our lodge was a visual feast - my face was glued to the window as the green trees yielded to sharp hues of yellow and orange and pristine meandering rivers crisscrossed the landscape. Eventually, the bus arrived at our home for the next several days - a lodge perched on a bluff overlooking the spectacular views of nearby Denali National Park. The surreal beauty of the changing colors in the high terrain was a sight to behold.

To kill time in the afternoon, we ventured into the small town below. As we hiked the remote gravel path we joked about bears waiting to ambush us and so I jokingly picked up a big stick "just in case". The town of Denali Park seemed deserted - even the main strip was empty. We learned that it was the last week of tourism season and everyone was packing up and moving back to Fairbanks or Anchorage as winter set in. The only restaurant open was a Subway - where I met three Jamaicans who shared their experiences as seasonal workers escaping the Caribbean heat during the summer. That night, exhaustion took over, and I slept soundly, missing the chance to view the aurora borealis.

The next morning, an old repurposed school bus whisked us away for a wilderness tour inside Denali National Park. The restriction on private vehicles beyond a certain point emphasized the park's pristine nature. Our bus was operated by an Alaska Native tribe and we learned that most of the tribes have corporations that provide tourism or other essential services. We traveled almost halfway through the almost 100-mile-long park road (the rest of the path was closed due to a recent landslide). Looking south, I used my binoculars to catch the peak of Denali (formerly known as Mount McKinley) poking through the clouds. The tour guide said we were lucky as many visitors usually don't see the mountain on their first visit. Denali is not only the highest landmark above sea level in North America but also the tallest mountain above land as measured from base to summit (Mount Everest sits at a higher base elevation but its base-to-summit distance is less than Denali and most of Mauna Kea in Hawaii is underwater). I was not surprised to learn that the summit has a microclimate of its own and experiences unusual weather patterns. As the bus made a U-turn, we continued to marvel at sightings of Dall sheep and grizzly bears alike and I was grateful I brought my binoculars. The bus paused once more to witness a herd of moose - massive creatures - before exiting the park.

Another highlight in the Alaskan interior was a visit to Jeff King's Husky Homestead - a must-stop for dog lovers. Jeff King, a famous Iditarod Trail winner, has a husky "farm" where he raises and trains huskies to serve as sled dogs in the famous Alaskan sled race. Besides getting distracted by the cute litters of puppies, we witnessed a live demo of the sled dogs and learned more about the iconic race. I would highly recommend this spot to any dog lovers! We returned to the lodge and settled in for our last night in Denali Park. That night, again I was too tired and slept through the aurora borealis but I hope to return one day so I can finally see this phenomenon!

We returned to Anchorage via bus and spent a day exploring the city's main streets and the insightful Alaska Museum. The city's charm and the museum's rich exhibits provided a deeper understanding of Alaska's history and culture. After the pit stop, our journey continued to Seward, winding along the shoreline of Turnagain Arm, where we witnessed the unusual phenomenon of tide reversal. En route, I saw the tunnel leading to Whittier, a town known for its unique two-building community. Whittier is a port with two massive buildings that house everyone! As the bus meandered the highway across the Kenai Peninsula, the deteriorating weather conditions did not yield good results for the following day. Instead of a glacier cruise, we embarked on a smaller wildlife tour on a small boat. Although we missed the Kenai Fjords and glaciers, the tour was far from disappointing as we pushed towards the Gulf of Alaska. We were treated to sightings of orcas, otters, eagles, and various birds. I just stood still staring at some of the glaciers, with their calming blue ice sheets reminding me how small we are in front these natural wonders. The turbulent weather eventually forced us to turn back - the boat was jolted by wave after wave - a testament to the resilience needed to live in such a wild environment. After the boating adventure, we boarded the train for the last time. The railway coach was old but well-maintained, and its panoramic car offered jaw-dropping views as we cut through the Alaskan scenery on our way back to Anchorage.

The following day, our last day in Alaska, I stumbled upon an aviation museum and immersed myself in the rich history of Alaskan aviation. At the museum, I learned how critical the industry was to the state's development and its modern impact as a major cargo hub. I especially liked the bush plane flight simulator which replicated the small planes that many Alaskans rely on to get around. There was also an active water runway for seaplanes and an accessible control tower. Eventually it was time to wrap up and go our seperate wayas again. I took the red-eye flight back to Michigan, filled with memories of Alaska's grandeur. Throughout the trip, I was constantly reminded of how small we are amidst such vast, untamed nature. Alaska, with its rugged beauty and wild spirit, truly is the Last Frontier.